Good food, good stories — from Santa Fe, New Mexico
Hard-won kitchen wisdom

Cooking Tips

General kitchen craft, plus a running series on the two things every Santa Fe cook must reckon with: seven thousand feet of altitude and air dry enough to cure jerky on the clothesline.

Cooking at 7,000 feet

Altitude

Why Your Water Boils at 198°F

Lower air pressure means a cooler boil. Pasta takes longer, beans take much longer, and a "3-minute egg" is a sea-level fiction. Build in time, and taste as you go.

Altitude

Yeast Rises Fast Up Here — Too Fast

Less air pressure means dough balloons quickly and can over-proof before the flavor develops. Cut the yeast by about a quarter and let the dough, not the timer, tell you when.

Altitude

Baking Cakes Without the Crater

The classic high-altitude fixes: a touch less sugar and leavening, a touch more liquid, and a slightly hotter oven to set the structure before it over-expands.

Dry climate

Your Flour Is Thirstier Than You Think

With humidity in the teens, flour stored in a Santa Fe pantry is genuinely drier. Doughs and batters often need an extra splash of liquid to look the way the cookbook photo promises.

Dry climate

Keeping Bread from Going Stale by Sundown

Desert air is merciless to a cut loaf. Store bread cut-side down on the board, bag what you'll eat tomorrow, and freeze the rest the day you bake it.

Altitude

Braising: Add an Hour, Gain a Dinner

A cooler simmer means collagen breaks down more slowly. Give pot roasts and short ribs 25–50% more time — the reward is the same silky result, just later.

From a critic's notebook

Craft

Taste Everything Twice

The single habit from restaurant reviewing that most improved my cooking: first taste for impression, second taste for what's missing. It's almost always salt or acid.

Craft

Read the Recipe Like an Editor

Read it twice, all the way through, before you turn on a burner. Half of kitchen disasters are really reading disasters — I say this as a former editor.

Craft

The Case for Cooking the Same Dish Ten Times

Restaurant cooks get good by repetition, not repertoire. Pick five dishes you love and cook them until the recipes disappear into your hands.